Exploring Rome with a Local

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Although I’ve visited the Eternal City on five previous occasions, I never had the opportunity to explore Rome with a local, until now.

I yearned to be in the city again, since my last time in Rome was four years ago, so I decided to take a day trip to Rome from Florence, only a ninety-minute train ride on the Italo fast train.

Having no particular agenda, I wanted to wander around, shoot photos, and enjoy the vibe of the always interesting and busy capital of Italy.  In the back of my mind, I thought I might like to see the “St Peter’s Keyhole,” on Aventine Hill, if I could find it.

I couldn’t have anticipated that it would be my good fortune to explore Rome with my own personal tour guide. Daniela Fanfarillo, a colleague and friend whom I had only known online, offered to drive into the city and show me some of the lesser known places of Rome.

She grew up in the hills just outside of Rome and was a wealth of knowledge with suggestions of special sites to explore. I always find it a thrill to finally meet someone in person after having made a connection and communicating on social media for some time.

I walked down via Cavour to the area near the metro stop, where Daniela and I met. Parking is a nightmare in Rome, where you are only allowed to park in certain districts with specific credentials. It was great to meet up and Daniela whisked me away in her car to our first stop. She had already designed an itinerary which she thought I’d enjoy, and she was right.

Colle Oppio
The first place she took me was Colle Oppio (Opium hill) where we visited Basilica di  San Pietro in Vincoli, in the beautiful Rione Monti.

This church is best known for being the home of Michelangelo’s sculpture of Moses, and Daniela explained that the lighting makes this an even more striking work of art.

We also passed by the ruins of Emperor Nero’s villa, known as  Domus Aurea. We also enjoyed spectacular views of the Coliseum from this vantage point on the hill.

Colle Celio (Caelian hill)
Next stop was Colle Celio, another of Rome’s seven hills, and yet another place I have never been. Here we visited the Basilica of San Clemente, significant for its three historical layers.

The 12th-century basilica is built on top of a well-preserved 4th-century church, where frescoes can still be seen, and  this was built next to a  Mithraic Temple dating back to the third century. It’s fascinating to explore the excavations of the lower two levels, and amazing to see running water inside from a  spring.

Afterward we stopped for gelato at Antica Gelateria De Matteis, recommended by Daniela. We had to try some of the unusual flavors such as mascarpone fighi and cioccolato al peperoncino. Delicious!

We continued our walk past the military hospital and the  Romanesque church dedicated to Santi Giovanni e Paolo

Behind the church we found the subterranean archeological site, Case Romane del Celio,  where the “ancient aperitif” is held on Fridays.

Sounds like fun…too bad we’re here too early.

Colle Aventino
Next is Aventine Hill, another of the famous seven hills of Rome. This is where the famous St. Peter’s Keyhole is found. We walked up via Santa Sabina, which ends in the small, picturesque Piazza dei Cavallieri di Malta. The keyhole is located on a door of the Grand Priory in Rome of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. A small line of people were there hoping to get a glimpse through  the peephole. I was excited to be here and happy that the line wasn’t too long.

Photo by Anthony Majanlahti (Flickr)

I was thrilled to be able to see St. Peter’s Dome through the keyhole. It truly was amazing. But my excitement was tempered by my lack of being able to capture a good photo with my iPhone. I walked away to let the others in line have a turn. I assumed I needed a better camera.

So we walked around the piazza and enjoyed the church of Sant’Anselmo, and the views from the gardens of the church of the Santi Bonifacio e Alessio, and the Orange Garden, (Giardino degli Aranci).

Views from the Orange Garden…

I decided to try my luck at the keyhole one more time.  So I waited in line again. And I couldn’t believe that I got the shot! I think it’s so cool!

Colle del Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill)
Capitoline Hill was next, and yet another place I have never been. Daniela has managed to take me to all places I have never seen in Rome. It’s been an amazing day so far. This is the place with the most spectacular views of  the Roman Forum and the Coliseum.

We reached the Piazza Campodiglio, designed by Michelangelo with the statue of Marco Aurelio. The buildings on the side were part of the Musei Capitolini. We had a delicious lunch at  Terrazza Caffarelli, where the views of the city were spectacular.

Our lovely day ended in Piazza Venezia when I took a cab to the train station to return to Florence. Thank you, Daniela, for a memorable day in Rome that I’ll remember for the rest of my life.

I saw places I’ve never been and exploring Rome with a local like you is the absolute best. Grazie, Cara.

Have you explored Rome with a local? I’d love to hear about  your own  experiences, so please leave a comment.

Grazie and Ciao.

*** Related ***

What I Love about Rome in Photos

Everyday Life in Rome – Photo of the Day

Taxis in Rome – Italy Travel Tips

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